Trip 50

April 21, 2025

We started out the day going to a stationery store because we like notebooks and pens and stuff and Japan is a mecca for those who like the same. We took a couple of buses, but on the way, passed a large temple (like churches in many cities in the world, they’re everywhere here)

Higashi Honganji Temple, the Eastern Monastery of the Original Vow”, is one of two dominant sub-sects of Shin Buddhism in Japan, the other being Nishi Honganji (or, ‘The Western Temple of the Original Vow’). It is also the name of the head temple of the Ōtani-ha branch of Jōdo Shinshū in Kyoto, which was most recently constructed in 1895 after a fire burned down the previous temple. We had not planned on seeing this temple, but it was adjacent to the bus stop. The temple complex seems enormous.

On the way to the bus, we passed another of the numerous (and apparently very popular) GASHAPON vending machines. Essentially a newer version of the machines that were the bane of my parents, with tchotchkes that are never worth what you pay for them, but for kids and those who ought to know better (but are curious), irresistible. GASHAPON.

Difficult to open, but my “prize” (300¥ or about $2.15) a very valuable pin. You don’t get to choose your prize, but like the gumball machines with the prize that never gets won, you put in your money and takes your chances. The prices vary (400¥ was the most expensive I saw).

The stationery store (Tag) wasn’t enormous (there’s a 12 story stationery store we plan to visit in Tokyo), but with a scope and selection you do not see any longer in the US.

From Tag, we took a bus to our lunch reservation (there was a decent line if you did not have them) at the Panel Cafe. It’s a small place, but has a balcony overlooking a small river (Kamogawa River) that runs into Kamo the river (reservation also needed for the balcony, with only 4 tables overlooking the river ).

Upon entering the cafe, you place your order even before being seated.

The (soufflé) pancakes are incredibly light and fluffy. Highly recommended! Very pleasant weather and company to enjoy our unhurried meal.

On leaving, we walked back to the Kami River banks , where there was a mime (something we’d not seen before here) and a statue commemorating the founder of kabuki.

The statue was erected in commemoration of the 1200th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto.

Afterwards, we returned to one of the main shopping areas in central Kyoto, Kyoto’s Takashimaya. It’s 7 stories, plus the basement (food hall) . It’s a department t store with a huge variety of departments, including art (that I’ve never seen in a department store) and, still, books (what stores carry books any longer?). Tax free is not a huge benefit (10%), but if you’re going to buy something, you might as well get the tax back. Different than in the EU where you only get your tax back upon leaving the EU, the refund is immediate.

Now, on to the next meal 😉, which is only a 15 minute walk. But though we did not have time to browse, there’s the Apple Store!

Kyoto Katsuda is our destination; it’s a small, 15 counter seat restaurant (four at the counter and one cook) serving a limited (4 set menus), but among them is Wagyu beef, and a tempura egg. Egg yolks here are wildly more orangey yellow. Japanese egg producers often include ingredients like paprika, marigold, or other sources of carotenoids in the hens’ diet, which result in richer, more orange yolks. The restaurant isn’t open all day; they open for lunch, then close for a few hours, then open back up at 5pm. We were there at 5:15pm and all 15 seats were full. We waited outside for 45 minutes…Finally, our time came.

There were some tempura vegetables as well, all delicious.